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Saturday, June 2, 2012

MEMORIES - SUMMERS OF 1975, 76 & 77




1975. THE THINGS WE DID - AND GOT AWAY WITH

I spent most of the year skipping classes at Karl Marx University. But instead of playing just hookey, I played bridge. I literally was absent from all lectures and only showed up for classes when it was totally unavoidable. Yet, I still passed all my exams, maybe not always at the first try, but nevertheless, I passed. In Hungary exams could be retaken, as long as it was done inside the six-week exam period. There were some limitations with which I will not bore anyone.

My reward was another carefree summer when I desperately wanted to find a place at the Lake Balaton for free. My partners, in bridge and in crime, were all up for this task. I hang out with Peter F. and his beautiful girlfriend Kati and some other bridge addicts for years. Kati had a girlfriend Böbe, who did not really belong to our circle of friends; however, her mother had a small summerhouse close to the lake. Kati and Peter F were invited to stay for much of the summer. That, however, left me in the city in a very morose state of mind. As it happened, Peter F’s cousin, Peter M from Sweden, was spending the summer in Hungary. Well, one cannot leave a foreign relative alone in the big city! So Peter M got permission to join Peter F and Kati to enjoy the sunshine in Siofok. What the hell, I could have as well been a foreign relative of somebody, or couldn’t I? So for the first time claiming my Jewishness, we decided that I was from Israel. We could have faked that I was from the US but we thought we were smarter than that. I spoke English fairly well, but obviously could not have then (or today) passed for a native speaker. What if somebody recognized I had an accent? Hence the idea of me becoming an Israeli. In hind sight, there was not one person who could even tell if I spoke English or Hebrew, let alone detect my accent! So Böbe’s mother, the kind hearted but simple person she was, agreed to take in another 6-foot plus visitor. And as if this was not enough for the small 12x12 room, Kati brought in two other girls, Jean from England and Monique from France. I honestly do not remember any more how we actually slept, who shared bed with whom.







Kép teljes méretben
Siofok, Lake Balaton 1970s
One thing is for sure, whenever Böbe’s mother was around, our communication was somewhat complicated. The two Peters both spoke Swedish and German, Peter M also spoke English, Kati; German and French, Monique and Jean; English and French. So for me, in order to communicate with Kati or Peter F (the two with whom I shared Hungarian as native tongue) I needed Peter M to translate. While this went on, Böbe’s mother was totally unsuspicious. I cannot even remember how many times the phrase „lost in translation” came to mind. And to make matters worse, we continued our game even when we went out. Jean hooked up with one of Peter F’s friends, and he also had no idea who I was. (If I remember correctly it was Peter F’s idea to continue this deception, but I was a willing participant). And I also benefited from it when I picked up a girl at a bar who fancied a rich German, but was more than happy to dump him for an English speaker with whom she could not even talk. Imagine, picking up girls without even having to say a word!
Hotel Marina, Balatonfüred
We spent time at the bar
of Hotel Marina

But I got really tired and embarrassed of pretending. I revealed my ability of speaking perfect Hungarian to Jean’s friend, who was taking it really well. It took me a while to realize; he still thought I was from Israel but spoke Hungarian as well. I confessed, but he did not really care. And the girl I picked up at the bar? Well, I never saw her after that night, never had the chance to say who I really was. The summer ended and we all went back to Budapest, and played more and more bridge!

1976 - Hungary and Ceaușescu’s Romania

Next summer Monique returned with her boyfriend Jean Jacques. Jean Jacques joined the French Army or the French Foreign Legion when he was 16 and fought in Algeria. He was small in stature but strong and fast and well trained in martial arts. I liked Jean Jacques, although I cannot say I knew him well, given the fact that I did not speak French nor did he speak anything else but French. By then Kati had a small apartment at the lake, so we needed no more lies. We all crammed in, the same gang minus, Jean and Peter M. Our new addition was Bird. Bird was his nick name, which he hated, but since his last name was the name of one of the rare bird species, we called him Bird. He was one of the smartest and most talented men I have ever met. A mathematician, an excellent bridge player, a brilliant mind. I don’t know what happened to him but at the time when I knew him he was able to do amazing things. We were going to go to Croatia to play bridge. Bird picked up some books and learnt Croatian in a couple of weeks. He was one of those, you did not want to argue with about anything, for he was too smart. Well, the pigs did not know that. They stopped us one late night when we were walking back to the apartment. They wanted to see our identification papers. It was not a pretty sight. Peter and I were worried about Jean Jacques doing something stupid, so we literally held his arms trying to calm him down while Bird was lecturing the officers.  We somehow got home without any major trouble.

Marosvasarhely-varoshaza
Marosvásárhely
We decided to take a short trip to the mountains with one rule in place, no playing cards. We wanted to enjoy nature and not play bridge. The first day passed without an incident. On the second day, the symptoms of bridge withdrawal were clearly noticeable.  Alcohol did not help and at this time no hard drugs were available. I doubt that even that would have helped. We started to analyze boards we played long time ago while hiking. We cut our trip short and caught the train to Romania. In Marosvásárhely a bridge tournament was about to start.

In Ceaușescu’s Romania everything was in short supply. We took soaps, deodorants and contraceptives. Selling just a few of these items was enough to finance our trip. Marosvásárhely is a beautiful city in Transylvania, yet I did not see anything of the city, not because I was playing bridge all day, but because I fell ill. Could not eat or drink anything, I had sores in my mouth and throat. Lying in bed all day I was charged with the dubious task of selling all our „goods”. Contraceptive was the hottest item but I had a hard time giving instructions how to use it. I would have liked to tell the girls who bought them to keep the pills between their knees for 100% effectiveness, but I really had to tell them that they needed to swallow them instead of placing them in the other ”obvious” place.

I got out alive from Romania without ever even playing bridge. Next time I was looking at pictures of Transylvania was in 1989.

It all started in Transylvania
Actually 1989 was the first year when I got off from the US deportation list and was able to visit Hungary for the first time in almost ten years on an UN issued nationless passport. It was one of the warmest Decembers on record in Hungary. The East Germans just left their temporary refugee camps after Hungary opened the borders for them to leave for West Germany through Austria. The whole of Eastern Europe was boiling; the winds of democracy seemed to arrive in the region. Romania, the worst country of the region, was still ruled by Ceaușescu when I arrived in Budapest early December. Around Christmas, things have changed, and changed they did dramatically. Transylvania, where most of the ethnic Hungarians lived, was leading the charge in ending decades of Communist rules. People from Hungary arrived by the truckload with food and medicine. It was not the velvet revolution of Václav Havel, nor was it the peaceful way on which Hungary moved towards democracy. It was a bloody revolution, in which many lost their lives. Of course journalists from all over the world wanted to be the first ones to report live.
Inside the torture chambers of Ceaușescu’s 

And another
I spent more time in front of the television than celebrating Christmas. We had 24-hour live coverage of the events, we could almost watch Ceaușescu’s and his “beloved” wife Elena’s executions in real time. After New Year’s Eve, in the wee hours of the morning, I ran into an old classmate of mine. Gabor N, a journalist and radio reporter, who just got back from Transylvania. We had to have a couple of morning drinks to clear our head and he shared some of his stories with me and left me some pictures he took while in Romania. I have posted some here.

1977
I graduated from Karl Marx, and before applying my vast knowledge to further build Socialism in Hungary, Kati, Böbe and I were going to take a long trip in Western Europe. I had not seen Böbe’s mother for over two years. She still did not know about our little white lie and I was afraid of being found out. But fortunately she did not seem to recognize me, or she was smarter and nicer than I have ever given credit to her, and she knew everything all along. In any case we got on the train towards Vienna, where I ended up in the same bed with two girls. Böbe was a bit apprehensive, so she slept on the left, Kati in the middle and I on the right. All platonic in the beginning and it stayed like that all the way through Munich, Paris and Venice.
In Munich we were greeted by a huge poster from which Hitler was screaming at us. For a second I thought that I was time travelling back to the past, but soon I realized that the poster was advertising a movie about Hitler’s life. The Germans, unlike the Hungarians, were able to look into the eyes of their past demons, and build a real democracy out of a terribly unjust political system. In the famous beerhouses I only met a few Brünhildas but no brown shirts. Munich was (and still is) a wonderful city with its happy and kind inhabitants and great museums.
Arc de TriompheArriving to Paris at 5 am was magical. The streets were all empty and Jean Jacques, now a tour bus driver, took us around the city that was just about to wake up. No traffic jams just the beautiful sights! We stayed with Monique and Jean Jacques, whose other profession was being a chef. A French Chef! One night we woke up to a strange noise. Periodically we seemed to hear somebody hammering something far away, but only using the hammer every 20-30 seconds, or it was a real slow woodpecker. The mystery was uncovered next day at dinnertime. Jean Jacque bought live snails that he kept in a covered bucket overnight. These little creatures tried to escape, they climbed up to the rim of the bucket, only to fall back in the depth when they hit the cover. The meal was delicious, snails as appetizers followed by steak. Only it was no beef, but horse meat. Well, we stayed at Maisons-Laffitte, where horse races were kept and paddocks were plentiful.
We abused Jean Jacques’ and Monique’s hospitality for about three weeks, then took the night train to Marseille. It was the 1st of August and all of Paris tried to get on the same train. I had a seat but I gave it up to try to sleep outside, in front of our cabin. After Marseille we took the night train to Venice. By then I was half dead of sleeplessness, insensitive to the beauty of the place. I fell asleep on the Lido and woke up as a new man. I loved Venice, and I still love it.
Then, with bleeding heart I parted from the two girls and took the train to Greece through Yugoslavia. I shared a cabin with two Scottish girls, and was not really sure what language they spoke. Fortunately, there was an Aussie in our cabin, who repeated everything they said in English. When you understand someone better from Australia than someone from Great Britain, you know something is wrong with you.
In Greece I was supposed to be have been met at the railway station by a girl I met a couple of years earlier in England. I sent a telegraph to her from Venice. No small task to wait patiently for your turn in an Italian post office, but I thought I was successful.  Turned out I was, at least technically. The telegram was only delivered 5 days after I arrived to Athens. So I figured I would call her, but I could not really spell her name in Greek!!! and did not have her phone number. The cabs were cheap so I got to her house but nobody answered the door. Finally a woman came, she looked like her but 20 years older.  She was indeed her mother, but spoke nothing but Greek, so naturally everything she said was real Greek to me. I did stay with her, eventually my friend showed up as well. Greece was wonderful, I travelled around, slept in parks, in other people’s tents, I shared hotel rooms with three others I have never seen before and survived the biggest storm in Delphi.
I ran out of money, my friend’s mother ran out of patience, so she put me up in  hotel but only for one night. I had to change my ticket to catch a flight back to Hungary where I knew I would score some food at my parents place. I walked to the office of MALEV, the Hungarian Airline. I showed my ticket to the girls who were minding the store. As soon as they looked at my ticket they started screaming. I thought I must have handed them the wrong document, but before I could even utter one more word, one of them got up and ran into the manager’s office. He came out, smiled and shook my hand and introduced himself. Only I did not know he was saying his name, I thought he was asking my name. But no, the excitement erupted because he and I shared the exact same first and last name!
I got back to Hungary at the end of August to start my illustrious career in foreign trade in September 1977.




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